Landscape planning, region by region
Plan a Yard That Fits Your Climate
Draw the plan, test the soil, find your zone, then plant for the rain, heat, wind and frost where you actually live.
A good landscape starts on paper, long before the first shovel. A local landscape designer, a nursery or your county extension office can help with the details of one yard; these guides explain the plan behind it: layout, soil, water, shade and the plants that suit each region.
Every number here comes from public sources such as the USDA hardiness zone map, NOAA climate normals, EPA WaterSense and state extension services, so you can check it yourself and plan with the climate instead of against it.
The plan
Three Beds, One Plan
Start with the basics bed, then find your region in the east or the west. Each plant symbol is a guide; the ones you have read are filled in.
Rain & frost check
How Much Rain, and When Is Frost?
Pick a region. The chart shows normal rain month by month at one reference airport, with the dry months marked, and the facts below show heat, snow and the median frost dates.
Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991-2020 (monthly and annual/seasonal). Snow is shown only where the station’s normals include it. More on reading your climate in How to Draw a Landscape Plan for Your Yard, Step by Step.
General notes
Five Notes Before You Dig
Every plan sheet carries general notes. These apply to every yard, whatever the region.
- 1Draw what is there first
Measure the lot and draw it to scale on graph paper: the house with its doors and windows, the drive and walks, existing trees with the spread of their canopies, downspouts, spigots, slopes and the places where water stands after rain. Keep that base map clean and sketch ideas on copies. Find out where buried utilities run before any digging. More in How to Draw a Landscape Plan for Your Yard, Step by Step.
- 2Know your zone, and what it leaves out
The 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map divides the country into 10-degree bands of the average coldest winter night, split into half zones. It is the starting point for perennials, trees and shrubs, but it says nothing about summer heat, rainfall, soil or wind. Your own yard has warmer and colder spots too. More in Find Your Hardiness Zone and What It Really Tells You.
- 3Test the soil before you buy plants
A soil test tells you the pH and nutrients you have, and what you do not need to add. Penn State Extension suggests mixing samples from 8 to 10 spots, 4 inches deep for lawns and 6 to 8 inches for gardens. Acid-loving plants such as azaleas and blueberries want a very different soil from a prairie bed. More in Test Your Soil Before You Plant: A Homeowner’s Guide.
- 4Group plants by the water they need
EPA WaterSense recommends grouping plants with similar water needs into hydrozones and keeping turf separate from shrub areas. Residential outdoor water use across the country is nearly 8 billion gallons a day, mostly for landscape irrigation, so the layout itself is the biggest water decision. Mulch three to four inches deep holds moisture in most beds.
- 5Plant shade and shelter where they work
In midsummer the east and west walls of a house take the most sun, so shade trees go there first. Studies collected by Building America measured cooling savings from landscape shading of 10 to 50 percent. On the open Plains, a windbreak on the windward side comes first; Kansas State puts fuel savings from windbreak protection at 15 to 25 percent. More in Landscaping for Energy Savings: Shade Trees and Windbreaks.
Questions
Read the Plant Tags
Short answers, each with the guide that goes further.